Thursday, October 28, 2010

Palmiers (Elephant Ears)

Often times (at least in my mind), the intricacies of French pastry-making sends a chill of terror down my spine.  Though it has been highlighted that the French are sometimes known for simplicity, the fact of the matter is that more times than not they follow as difficult a road as a culture can take.  This is especially the case with most French desserts.  So, as this month's journey sent me on the road to Paris, I found myself with extreme anxiety over the dessert aspect of our menu.  After all, I love desserts.  I love French desserts.  But, the pressure imposed on myself because of these truths would mean that nothing less than perfection would do.

So, I decided to try a little treat that I have eaten many times before.  Palmiers.  Sometimes called "elephant ears" or "palm leaves," when in a baker's window they look like a million bucks, shimmering with carmelization and glimmers of sucrotic bliss.  They are one of my favorites!  Not too sweet.  Not too savory.  Somewhere in the blissful world between.  A perfect ending to a heavy meal.  The perfect pick-me-up during an afternoon slump.  What I mean to say is that they are an all-purpose dessert; good for any season, any company, or any reason.

In trusting the "Barefoot Contessa" (despite the fact that she's not French), I felt that she would pave the way a little more easily than some of her predecessors.  And, truly, she did.  Though her recipe doesn't call for one to make their own pastry dough (thank heavens for Pepperidge Farm and the frozen section of the grocery store!), it is in all other ways authentic.  And, though I earlier jumped to the idea that the French were masochists when it came to the complexity of their desserts, I was again nicely surprised to learn that they are, sometimes, simplistic...even with their pastries.

So, it was a surprisingly easy month devoted to a typically difficult nation.  And, though it seems like the perfect time to insert another "Viva la France," perhaps it would be more fitting to say "Viva Simplicité!"



Ingredients:
  • 2 cups granulated sugar
  • 1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 2 sheets puff pastry, defrosted (recommended: Pepperidge Farm)
Instructions:
  1. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F.
  2. Combine the sugar and kosher salt. Pour 1 cup of the sugar/salt mixture on a flat surface such as wooden board or marble. Unfold each sheet of puff pastry onto the sugar and pour 1/2 cup of the sugar mixture on top, spreading it evenly on the puff pastry. This is not about sprinkling, it's about an even covering of sugar.
  3. With a rolling pin, roll the dough until it's 13 by 13-inches square and the sugar is pressed into the puff pastry on top and bottom. Fold the sides of the square towards the center so they go halfway to the middle. Fold them again so the two folds meet exactly at the middle of the dough. Then fold 1 half over the other half as though closing a book. You will have 6 layers.
  4. Slice the dough into 3/8-inch slices and place the slices, cut side up, on baking sheets lined with parchment paper.
  5. Place the second sheet of pastry on the sugared board, sprinkle with the remaining 1/2 cup of sugar mixture, and continue as above. (There will be quite a bit of sugar left over on the board.) Slice and arrange on baking sheets lined with parchment.
  6. Bake the cookies for 6 minutes until caramelized and brown on the bottom, then turn with a spatula and bake another 3 to 5 minutes, until caramelized on the other side. Transfer to a baking rack to cool.

(This original recipe came from "Barefoot in Paris" by Ina Garten.)

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